Retinoid Soothing Strategies
If there’s one reason I see people quit retinoids too soon, it’s irritation. While there is a normal adjustment period when starting a retinoid, or increasing to a higher strength, a large portion of the irritation I see in-clinic is avoidable. I am going to share every soothing tip, step, and strategy when using a retinoid. For anybody who is either just starting with a retinoid, hoping to start, or even if you’ve been using one for a while but want to ramp up to a higher strength, this is for you.
Let’s get into it…
I touched on this briefly in the introduction, but it’s important to expand on it here: not every initial reaction to a retinoid can be prevented. You’ve probably heard a ton of content creators talk about the “purging” or “flaking” stage. The truth is that when starting a retinoid or increasing to a higher strength, your skin has to adapt to accelerated cell turnover.
The reason I wanted to highlight this point in the beginning is because the goal of the strategies I’m about to give you, is not to eliminate this phase entirely. The hope is to reduce any unnecessary irritation and protect the skin barrier.
Here’s a brief cheat sheet on what I find to be expected vs. preventable irritation.
Normal adjustment can include:
Mild dryness or tightness
Light flaking, especially around the mouth or nose
Purging in acne-prone areas where you normally break out
Slight sensitivity that improves over a few weeks
Symptoms we are hoping to avoid:
Burning or stinging that lingers for hours after application
Persistent redness or heat
Rash-like irritation
Worsening sensitivity to even gentle products (this isn’t necessarily abnormal but with some adjustments to the routine we can often avoid it)
Ok now that we covered what we are hoping to avoid, let’s discuss all of my retinoid soothing strategies..
Strategy #1: Use the Right Amount
Ok I know this sounds like a silly point, but over-application is one of the most common mistakes I see. I actually dedicated a whole blog on the proper amount (I feel that passionately about the subject), but essentially, all you need is a pea-sized amount all over your face. And you better believe, I am not forgetting my neck, chest and hands. So I will use another pea sized amount for all 3 of those areas.
A general rule of thumb is to aim for spreading a thin, even layer. Retinoids work at very low concentrations. So using more won’t get you faster results, it will only increase irritation.
Strategy #2: Start With Your Moisturizer
If you’ve seen me talk about PM skin routines, I am sure you have heard me bring up this method. If you’re sensitive, just starting out with retinoids, or you’re transitioning to a new retinoid, this is a must. Using a moisturizer before your retinoid is one of the easiest and most effective ways to improve tolerability. Applying your retinoid after your moisturizer helps slow absorption and soften the initial impact.
Strategy #3: Add An Extra Buffer
Even with a moisturizer buffer, certain areas of the face are more prone to irritation. The corners of the mouth, sides of the nose, under-eye area, lips and sometimes the chin tend to react more quickly due to a thinner skin barrier.
For these areas, I swear by applying a very thin layer of an occlusive before your retinoid. To summarize, you would do your double cleanse, moisturizer, then spot treat with an occlusive to the extra sensitive areas, and then finish with your retinoid! As a sensitive skin girlie, this has saved me so many times.
Pro Tip: I cannot emphasize enough how important it is that this occlusive layer goes on before the retinoid. Applying occlusives on top can actually increase penetration and worsen irritation. As someone who has made this mistake multiple times, you will wake up with super irritated and burning skin.
Strategy #4: Increase Frequency Slowly
I don’t know why, but this seems to be such a heated debate right now. The truth is to start slow, with the eventual end-game of using it nightly.
Beginning with a few nights per week and slowly increasing frequency as your skin tolerates it allows you to build resilience. I have most patients start 3 nights a week and it can take them months before they are even up to 5 nights a week. Don’t rush it. A good rule of thumb is every third night for 2 weeks, then every other night for two weeks and finally every night.
Strategy #5: Choose the Right Formula for Your Skin
Not all retinoids are created equal. The vehicle matters just as much as the strength. I have a whole blog and shopmyshelf on my top pick retinoid for every skin type, but I just want to remind you here, that it’s worth searching for the one that works with your skin type. If someone feels they “can’t tolerate retinoids,” the issue is often the formula rather than the ingredient itself.
Strategy #6: Keep the Rest of Your Routine Simple
I cannot emphasize this point enough. Especially when we are working with actives, too much is TOO MUCH. Layering too many actives is the fastest way to overwhelm the skin and trigger irritation.
When starting or adjusting a retinoid, it’s best to keep everything else pretty gentle. This should look like a gentle cleanse in the morning, a vitamin c your skin is used to, moisturizer and spf. Evenings should be your double cleanse, moisturizer, optional occlusive, and retinoid. That’s it.
Strategy #7: Book An Appointment With Your Derm Provider
I mean are you even surprised? I know I sound redundant at this point, but seeing a derm provider is without a doubt, the best way to customize a retinoid routine specific for your skin. I truly can’t recommend it enough.
