Barrier-First Skincare 101
I know I am not alone in noticing that every year, there are an abundance of new skin trends. Some are absolutely insane, in my opinion (I’m talking about you, DIY skincare, excessively long skincare routines, etc.). With that, there are quite a few trends/buzzwords that have come up in the last couple of years that I fully support the hype (skin barrier attention coming top of mind). You’ve probably heard creators pitch skin barrier healing or products claim to support the skin barrier, but what actually is it? Is everyone’s skin barrier actually damaged? What does it look like to “care” for our skin barrier? Let’s discuss it all.
To begin a little background…
As a Derm PA, I see barrier disruption constantly (I’m not even exaggerating). I should also emphasize that when people hear “barrier disruption,” I find that they assume it’s going to show up in patients with eczema or rosacea. This isn’t entirely true. It can also happen to anyone after a season change, travel, a little too much exfoliation, an “I tried five new products in one week” moment, or even just a few days of inconsistent skincare.
The good news is that barrier-first skincare is not complicated.
Now a little break it down…
When people say “skin barrier,” they’re usually talking about the outermost part of the epidermis, which basically works like a protective wall. The problem is that when the barrier is damaged, there is an increased amount of water escaping through the skin because the barrier isn’t sealing properly.
Fortunately, our skin barrier doesn’t hide how it’s doing. For example, if signs that barrier is healthy, your skin looks and feels:
calm
hydrated
smooth
more even-toned
better able to tolerate actives
When it’s compromised, you’re more likely to notice:
stinging/burning when you apply skincare
tightness after cleansing
dry patches + flaking
redness, sensitivity, itchiness
breakouts that feel “angry” or suddenly worsened
I assume this has led anyone reading this to the one of the ultimate questions, what is leading to damaged barrier. Barrier damage is usually a stacking effect—a little here and there until your skin hits a tipping point.
Common culprits:
1) Over-exfoliation (the #1 issue, in my opinion)
AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, scrubby devices, exfoliating pads—these all have a place (except for any “scrubs,” those are never welcome), but they should be used minimally and strategically. Don’t double up on actives in the same routine, use a retinoid nightly that you have built up to, and only incorporate other exfoliants 2-3 times a week. I have a whole blog on exfoliation, for a full breakdown.
2) Cleansing that’s too harsh (or too aggressive)
Not just what you cleanse with—but how you cleanse. This can look like using very hot water, over cleansing, rough cleansing, stripping formulas, etc.
3) Weather + indoor heat
Cold air + wind + indoor heating can dry you out fast, especially if you’re already slightly compromised.
4) Inconsistent moisturizer + SPF (heavy on the SPF)
If you skip moisturizer because you “don’t feel dry,” or treat SPF like a sometimes-step, your barrier has a harder time staying stable. Full transparency, especially if you’re skipping SPF, you are going to have a whole array of problems.
Regarding the moisturizer point, there are cases where oily skin types can skip moisturizer occasionally. Specifically during warmer months in the morning, if your SPF is moisturizing enough.
5) Too many new products at once
Even gentle formulas can overwhelm your skin when you switch multiple steps at the same time.
Alright, let’s say that you’re reading this and your response is ok my skin barrier is damaged, what now. I should start by saying the absolute best recommendation I can give is to see your derm provider. Following that, my suggestion could be summarized into one word: simplify.
If your skin is actively irritated—burning, tight, red, flaky—this is the routine I recommend most often.
AM:
Step 1: Gentle cleanse (here are a few of my favorites right now) or a splash of water
If your barrier is compromised, the goal is clean, not “squeaky.” That tight, stripped feeling after cleansing is a red flag—not a sign your cleanser is working.
If you’re very dry/sensitive: try a splash of lukewarm water in the morning and cleanse only at night.
If you’re oily/acne-prone: use a gentle cleanser, but keep it non-stripping and fragrance-free.
Pro tip: Most people aren’t cleansing thoroughly—and then they compensate by scrubbing harder. You don’t need to be rough, but you do need to be intentional. Aim for about 60 seconds of gentle cleansing.
Step 2: Moisturize
When your barrier is disrupted, moisturizer isn’t “extra”—it’s part of the repair plan.
What I like to see in a barrier-supporting moisturizer:
ceramides
cholesterol
fatty acids
Niacinamide
Step 3: SPF (non-negotiable)
If you take nothing else from this blog, let it be this: your skin barrier cannot truly recover if it’s getting hit with UV damage every single day. UV exposure increases inflammation, worsens dryness, and makes your skin more reactive—plus it contributes to pigmentation, texture changes, and accelerated aging.
Choose a sunscreen you’ll actually wear daily. If your skin is feeling reactive, many people do better with mineral SPF, but the best sunscreen is the one you’ll use consistently.
This one is my current obsession!
PM:
Step 1 & 2: Double Cleanse
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, a double cleanse is a must for me. If you are wearing the amount of spf you should be, then a double cleanse is the only way to ensure you’re giving your skin the cleanse you should be.
First cleanse: cleansing balm or oil to melt sunscreen/makeup. You can also use a micellar water.
Second cleanse: gentle cleanser to actually clean the skin
Step 2: Moisturize:
A thin layer of your favorite moisturizer. You can absolutely use the same one you used in the morning. If anything, I like to keep the amount of products I use minimal.
Step 3: “Micro-slugging”
I love this step when skin is compromised, but I’m going to be specific: you do not need to slug your entire face.
Instead, do what I call micro-slugging:
corners of the nose
around the mouth
under eyes (if tolerated)
any dry patches or areas that are peelingAM: Cleanse → Microcurrent → Eye cream → Vitamin C → Moisturizer → SPF
That’s all. I know the skin barrier conversation can be a big one, so I hope this simplifies it and makes the topic a little more digestible. Let me know in the comments below or a DM if you want more details on skin barrier (products I love to keep mine happy, what not to use, etc.)
Also, a reminder that my Skincare Guide is upgraded! If you haven’t already, now is the time!
