How I Decide Which Active Ingredients to Keep (& Which to Skip)
With so much attention on skincare lately, the term “actives” gets thrown around constantly. But for the longest time, I realized no one was really breaking down what that actually means. What’s considered an “active”? How do you choose the right one for your skin? And which ones are truly worth keeping—or skipping altogether?
That’s what inspired today’s blog. Let’s take a step back and make sense of the ingredients that actually do the work—what they are, how they fit into your routine, and how to combine them without overwhelming your skin.
what’s an “active”?
Short version: an active ingredient is added to a formula to achieve a specific, measurable effect on the skin. This could be reducing acne, combatting hyperpigmentation, supporting collagen, increasing hydration, etc.
Everything else in the product (your “inactive” ingredients) helps the active stay stable, feel nice, and absorb effectively.
The Core Actives I Recommend (and How I Use Them):
There are a few actives I consider to be most skincare girlies’ (myself included) “core actives” Let’s cover them:
1) Vitamin C:
What it does: Neutralizes free radicals from UV and pollution, supports collagen, and helps fade uneven tone. It’s hard to pick a favorite active, but this one is absolutely in the running.
Best for: Can I say “pretty much everyone” lol. I love it (especially for) dullness, uneven tone, or protection against environmental aggressors.
How I use it: AM (mainly because it pairs so well with spf). I usually apply it on clean, dry skin. Follow with moisturizer (optional for oily skin types in warmer months, IF spf is hydrating enough) and SPF.
Packaging tip: This might sound random, but Vitamin C is one of the trickiest ingredients to keep stable. It oxidizes quickly, meaning it can lose potency if exposed to air, light, or heat. Always store it at room temperature (not in the bathroom!), make sure the cap is tightly sealed after each use, and look for opaque or air-restrictive packaging to help preserve its shelf life. I know..I know, she’s stubborn. This is also the reason I highly recommend doing your research and investing in your vitamin c (not in all cases, but in most, this is the product I tend to splurge on).
Pairs well with: Sunscreen (truly a dream team), niacinamide, hyaluronic acid.
my favorite Vitamin C for every skin type:
2) Retinoids:
What they do: We are really starting off with my favorites here! Retinoids are quite literally, the gold standard of skincare. They speed up cell turnover and help smooth fine lines, texture, pores, and pigment.
Best for: Aging concerns, texture, or breakouts—most skin types can tolerate if introduced slowly. This is another one where I pretty much recommend it to everyone (unless you’re pregnant).
How I use it: PM only, pea-sized amount. If you’re reactive, buffer with moisturizer first (you can even apply a little petroleum jelly to the areas you’re extra sensitive). Start 2-3 nights a week and increase gradually.
3) Niacinamide:
What it does: Calms redness, regulates oil, strengthens the skin barrier, refines pores, and evens tone.
Best for: Again, pretty much everyone—especially sensitive, oily, or acne-prone skin.
How I use it: This is one where I love incorporating products with niacinamide. I just find that with how many cleansers and moisturizers containing niacinamide, it’s really not necessary to use a niacinamide specific serum (remember, too much of a good thing is still too much).
4) Hyaluronic Acid:
What they do: Pull water into the skin for plumpness and comfort.
Best for: If you are one who is applying more and more moisturizer, without feeling satisfied, your skin needs hydration rather than moisture. A topical HA serum is one of my favorite ways to achieve this!
How I use it: This is one where you can also find it in a ton of products, so you don’t necessarily need an HA specific serum. However, if you feel like you could use that extra umph of hydration, I love PCA’s Hyaluronic Serum. I usually apply it at night after cleansing, and make sure to follow with a moisturizer.
5) AHAs & BHAs:
AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic): Exfoliate surface layers
BHA (salicylic acid): Oil-soluble; clears pores and calms inflammation
Best For: I really need to start each section with “everyone,” but especially if you are acne prone! It’s such a gentle (yet effective) form of exfoliation.
How I use them: I love them in the form of an active cleanser in the morning or an exfoliating pad in the morning! I probably use one or the other 4ish mornings a week (especially after a workout) and it’s helped so much with combatting breakouts.
6) Ceramides:
What they do: Rebuild barrier lipids to keep hydration in and irritants out.
Best for: I would say that especially if you are dry, and/or sensitive, you’ll greatly benefit from ceramides.
How I use them: It is probably one of the main ingredients I look for in moisturizers and cleansers!
My favorite products with ceramides!
7) Peptides:
What they do: Signal skin to support firmness and elasticity.
Best for: I would say it’s a standard especially for anti-aging routines. I actually really love them as a supplement when I’m pregnant and can’t use my retinoid.
How I use them: Another one where I look for it as an ingredient in other products. I mean, one of my Skinthusiast Select products is the Skinfix Triple Lipid Peptide Moisturizer. Prequel also has an amazing and affordable moisturizer with peptides.
How to Choose Your Actives:
Please keep in mind that this is supposed to act as a quick cheat sheet. Keep in mind that every skin type is so nuanced, so find what works best for you, but here are my quick suggestions:
Acne / Clogged pores:
→ BHA (salicylic) (in the form of a cleanser or pad) 4-5 mornings a week
→ Add a product with niacinamide daily
→ Retinoid at night
Uneven tone / Hyperpigmentation:
→ Vitamin C daily AM (unless you are using an exfoliating pad)
→ Retinoid at night
→ AHA (in the form of a cleanser or pad) 2–3 mornings a night
Lines / Texture / Prevention:
→ Retinoid at night
→ Add a product with peptides daily
→ Incorporate HA and ceramides to protect barrier
Redness / Sensitivity:
→ Add a product with niacinamide daily
→ Find a cleanser or moisturizer with ceramides to use daily
→ Gentle acids only (mandelic or lactic)
→ Retinoid at night (but use a moisturizer first as well as petroleum jelly on extra sensitive spots)
Dry / Dehydrated:
→ HA in the evenings
→ Ceramide-rich cream
→ Retinoid at night
Pro Tip: Read my blog on skincare combos I recommend and don’t recommend, to maximize benefits and minimize irritation!
Which Ones I’d Consider Ditching (and Why):
Let’s be honest—you don’t need every trending ingredient on TikTok. Here are a few actives I’d personally skip or use selectively:
1. Too many exfoliating acids at once.
You don’t need glycolic, lactic, mandelic, and salicylic all living in one cabinet. So many people are over-exfoliating.
2. Harsh physical scrubs.
Never never. If you’re using actives, please skip anything gritty. Chemical exfoliants are far more effective and much gentler on the skin.
3. Fragrance-heavy or essential oil “actives.”
They might smell nice but they so often cause irritation, especially if you’re already using potent actives like retinoids or acids.
4. Trendy “miracle” ingredients without data.
This one might ruffle some feathers. Ingredients like snail mucin or chlorophyll aren’t bad, but the research is limited. If you’re already using evidence-based actives, you’re not missing out.
5. Doubling up unnecessarily.
For example, using both a vitamin C serum and a “brightening AHA toner” in the same morning—it’s redundant and can backfire.
