What You Should Know About Blackheads
I think we can all pretty much admit that—blackheads are one of the most frustrating (and stubborn) skincare concerns. No matter how much we cleanse, exfoliate, or try to resist the urge to squeeze/pop, they always seem to return (and if you’re like me, it’s always at the least convenient time). If you’ve ever felt personally victimized by blackheads, you are absolutely not alone. As a Derm PA, I get questions about blackheads from clients and followers pretty much everyday. So, let’s break it down—what blackheads actually are, why they form, and, most importantly, how to get rid of them (without damaging your skin in the process).
What Exactly Is a Blackhead?
Blackheads, or open comedones, form when a hair follicle (aka a pore) becomes clogged with oil and dead skin cells. Unlike whiteheads, which are covered by a thin layer of skin, blackheads are open to the air. This exposure causes oxidation, turning the clogged material dark—hence the name "blackhead." And no, the dark color isn’t dirt! It’s just oxidized oil.
Why Do Blackheads Form?
Blackheads love to show up in areas where oil production is high. For most of us, this looks like the T-zone (think forehead, nose and chin)! While anyone can get them, they tend to be more common in those with oily skin.
Here are a few key reasons they appear:
Excess Oil Production: If your skin produces more sebum (oil) than it needs, it can easily mix with dead skin cells and clog pores.
Hormonal Fluctuations: Hormones play a huge role in oil production, which is why blackheads are common during puberty, menstruation, pregnancy, and stress-induced breakouts.
Not Cleansing Properly: There is a reason I swear by a double cleanse. If you’re not removing sunscreen, makeup, and daily grime effectively, buildup can occur and lead to congestion.
How to Get Rid of Blackheads
I feel like you are going to have a love/hate feeling to this answer. The good news is there are absolutely things you can do to combat and prevent blackheads. The bad news is there is no quick fix! The key to blackhead removal is patience and consistency—there’s no magic overnight fix. However, the right skincare routine can significantly reduce them over time. Here’s what actually works:
1. Go See Your Dermatologist
Before I give any other suggestions on what to do for blackheads, the number one suggestion I have is to go see your dermatologist. They can tailor a routine and plan that is specific for your skin type and needs. They can also advise on in-office treatments to combat blackheads (if this is a route you are interested in)!
2. Use an Active Cleanser in the Morning
If you aren’t already, use cleanser that contains AHAs (like glycolic or lactic acid), BHAs (like salicylic acid), or benzoyl peroxide. AHAs help exfoliate the surface of the skin, while BHAs penetrate deep into pores to dissolve excess oil and dead skin cells. Benzoyl peroxide, on the other hand, works to reduce acne-causing bacteria and inflammation. I recommend taking a peak at my blog on breaking down active ingredients and which one might be best for your skin type/goals. I will do a roundup below of some of my favorite active cleansers, but I recommend incorporating them in your morning routine a few times a week!
3. Retinoids, Retinoids, Retinoids
If you’ve been following me for a while, you already know my love for retinoids. Retinol and prescription-strength tretinoin help speed up cell turnover, preventing dead skin from clogging pores in the first place. In my opinion, incorporating a retinoid has made one of the biggest differences for my skin! If you are looking for how to get started with retinol, you can read my blog here. I also have a blog on WHY you should start retinol here.
4. Try Peel Pads!
I know this doesn’t qualify as a “hack,” but peel pads literally transformed my skin when I was struggling with adult acne in my 20s. Everytime I start using them again, I swear I fall in love all over again. For anyone not familiar, these are pre-soaked pads that use AHAs (like glycolic acid) and BHAs (like salicylic acid). On mornings I am not already using an active cleanser and I feel like my skin needs a little extra help, peel pads are my holy-grail.
My go-to favorites are the Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Pads and the BareFaced Toning Pads. They are effective and easy to use (my two favorite things).
5. Moisturize
I know so many of my clients who have an oily skin type that assume skipping moisturizer is the best solution. While oily skin types can occasionally get away with it during warmer months in the AM (if they have a moisturizing sunscreen). However, if you are thinking of skipping moisturizer altogether, your skin can produce more oil to compensate. If you are someone who’s thinking “it might just be better if I skip a moisturizer,” try looking for a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer to keep your skin just hydrated enough.
6. Don’t Sleep in Makeup (Ever!)
While I HOPE this one is obvious, I hear it all the time people occasionally making exceptions for sleeping in makeup. If you aren’t already familiar, makeup, sunscreen, and environmental debris can sit in your pores and contribute to congestion if not properly removed. This is the reason I swear by a double cleanse at night. In my opinion, it is the only way to ensure you are removing everything! I also suggest using a hand towel to pat dry your skin, if anything is showing up on your towel, you haven’t cleansed enough.
7. Avoid Touching Your Face
In my opinion, this is one of the easiest habits you can adopt to make a difference. I know how tempting it can be to either touch your face, or squeeze out blackheads, but this can push bacteria deeper into the skin, leading to inflammation, irritation, and even scarring
The bottom line is blackheads are annoying, but they’re completely normal. The best way to prevent and treat them is to stick to a consistent skincare routine with the right ingredients! As always, I am here to help! Reach out if you have any questions or what you want me to cover next!
Make sure to follow along on Pinterest, Instagram, TikTok & My Newsletter for skin tips, beauty advice & more! Looking for more? Check out my in depth Skincare Guide here where you’ll learn exactly how to create a full skincare routine from scratch!
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