Hyaluronic Acid 101

Written By Amy M. Koberling

It’s safe to say hyaluronic acid (HA) has become one of the most talked-about ingredients in skincare—and for good reason. As a Derm PA, I can honestly say I’ve seen firsthand how it can transform a routine. But as with anything in skincare, there’s nuance. While HA is incredibly beneficial, there’s also a lot of misunderstanding (and overhype) around what it actually does, how to use it properly, and whether it lives up to its reputation.

Let’s break it all down—from what hyaluronic acid really is to how to use it effectively, what formulations matter most, and what the science actually says.

What Is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan (a type of sugar molecule) found throughout the body—in the skin, joints, eyes, and connective tissues. Its main function in the skin is to bind water and retain moisture. HA can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it an incredibly effective humectant.

To no surprise, our natural stores of HA decline as we age (RIP)—leading to dryness, dullness, and the appearance of fine lines. That’s where topical or injectable HA can help replenish what’s lost.

The Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid

Ok now let’s get to the good bits, the benefits. Hyaluronic acid does way more than just hydrate! Here’s all the benefits (that research and clinical practice actually support):

  • Hydration: HA draws moisture from the environment or underlying layers of the skin, making it incredibly effective at improving hydration and skin elasticity.

  • Improved Skin Barrier: HA helps reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier, which protects against irritants, pollution, and environmental stress.

  • Reduction in Fine Lines: While HA won’t erase wrinkles, it can visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines by plumping the skin with moisture.

  • Better Tolerance of Actives: When paired with ingredients like retinoids or acids, HA can buffer potential irritation and improve user experience.

Common Myths About HA

You know it wouldn’t be a blog by me, if I didn’t throw in a section on debunking common myths! Let’s clear up a few common misconceptions:

  • "HA will plump my skin like filler."

    • Nope. I wish. Topical HA hydrates; it does not fill or add volume. Injectable HA physically add volume beneath the skin.

  • "The higher the percentage, the better."

    • Not true. Most effective HA products are in the 1–2% concentration range. Higher concentrations can actually draw water out of the skin in dry environments, leading to dehydration.

  • "All HA is the same."

    • Again—false. Just like every other skincare product, not all are created equal. Molecular weight, formulation, and supporting ingredients all matter (don’t worry I will give you my favorites).

Ok enough of the myths, let’s get to how to use HA that’s Derm PA approved!

How to Use Hyaluronic Acid (Without Drying Out Your Skin)

Let’s talk specifics—because how you apply HA matters just as much as the ingredient itself.

  • When I Use It: I personally prefer to use hyaluronic acid in my evening routine. I find that it pairs beautifully with my nighttime actives, and gives my skin that plump, hydrated feeling by morning.

  • How Much I Use: A little goes a long way. I use about a pea-sized amount of product and apply it evenly across my face and neck. If you’re using a concentrated HA serum, you truly don’t need a ton—too much can leave the skin feeling sticky.

  • What I Pair It With (this does NOT mean a skincare cocktail, where I am mixing them. I am just using them in the same routine):

  • HA + Retinoids: This combo is elite! HA helps buffer the dryness and flaking that can come with retinoids. I usually do double cleanse → HA → retinoid → moisturizer (you can also swap retinoid and moisturizer, if you are a retinoid beginner or your skin is on the sensitive side)

  • HA + Peptides: Especially after (or before, pending on your sensitivity) a retinoid, following up with a peptide-rich moisturizer that includes HA to help soothe and hydrate.

  • HA + Niacinamide: These two are truly a match made in heaven. They help strengthen the skin barrier and maintain hydration. **I don’t like to use a Niacinamide serum on it’s own (just because it’s in so many products already), so I will use my HA serum then try to incorporate a moisturizer with HA in it**

  • What I Avoid Pairing It With:

  • Honestly, HA is one of those rare ingredients that plays well with almost everything. The only caveat: I don’t overdo it. If you’re using multiple products that each contain HA (check your ingredient label, guys), you could end up with tightness or flaking. Stick to 1–2 HA-containing products max.

Who Should Use Hyaluronic Acid?

The beauty of HA is that it’s generally well tolerated by all skin types:

  • Dry/Dehydrated Skin: A must, especially in cold or dry climates.

  • Sensitive Skin: HA is non-irritating and pregnancy-safe, so I love it for sensitive skin types.

  • Oily/Acne-Prone Skin: For oily/acne prone, I usually suggest lightweight serums or gel-based products with HA, so they can hydrate without clogging pores.

  • Mature Skin: Another audience who will greatly benefit! HA helps compensate for natural moisture loss and supports suppleness.

Pro Tip: If you notice irritation, flaking, or unexpected dryness from your HA product, it could be due to overuse (using it in multiple products), low humidity environment, or no moisturizer layered on top.

My Favorite HA-Infused Products

Overall takeaway: Hyaluronic acid isn’t just hype—it’s a fundamental building block of hydrated skin. If you’re struggling with dryness, irritation, or you’re just looking for that extra skin bounce—HA is one ingredient I rarely leave out of a routine.


BIG NEWS! My new & improved Skincare Guide is HERE! If you are ready to level up your routine, this one is for you!

xx Amy


**Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links and may contain products gifted in PR. This means that I may earn a small commission when you purchase via these links at no additional cost to you (thank you! It helps me keep things up and running)… As always I ONLY recommend products, goods and services that I stand behind and personally love and use

Amy M. Koberling
Next

My Acne Journey