The Basics of Tackling Hyperpigmentation
If you’ve ever looked in the mirror and thought, where did that dark patch come from?!, you are absolutely not alone. Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skincare concerns I get asked about—and for good reason. It’s tricky to treat, super stubborn, and requires consistency (and a lot of sunscreen, more on that soon). Whether you’re dealing with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (aka the marks left behind after breakouts or irritation), this blog will walk you through the basics: what it is, what causes it, and how to address it with an effective at-home routine.
Just a quick reminder: While this blog is focused on over-the-counter treatments, it’s always a good idea to check in with a dermatology provider to confirm the type of hyperpigmentation you’re dealing with and to rule out other causes. This blog is not medical advice.
What Is Hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is essentially the skin’s response to inflammation, hormones, and/or sun exposure—resulting in areas of the skin that appear darker than your normal complexion. Let’s quickly break down the two most common types I see:
1. Melasma
Melasma is a chronic pigmentation disorder that typically shows up on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and nose. It’s often hormone-related (common during pregnancy, on birth control, or in women of childbearing age) and is strongly triggered by sun exposure and even heat. Yes, even just sitting in a warm car or hot yoga class can cause a flare. Ask me how I know—my upper lip does a convincing mustache impression every summer.
Unfortunately, melasma doesn’t have a true “cure,” but it can absolutely be managed with the right routine (don’t worry, I will give you all the tips on this later)
2. Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
PIH is the discoloration that lingers after your skin goes through any kind of trauma—breakouts, bug bites, eczema, rashes, or even an aggressive peel. It can appear pink, red, or brown depending on your skin tone and the depth of the pigment. Fortunately, PIH is more likely treatable with topical skincare.
How to Address Hyperpigmentation at Home
Let’s talk routine. While in-office procedures like lasers and peels can make a big difference, there’s A LOT you can do at home with the right lineup. These are the foundational ingredients and products I reach for again and again:
Sunscreen (Non-Negotiable)
I know, I know—it wouldn’t be a blog of mine if I didn’t bring up SPF. But I have to lead with it because sunscreen is truly the most important step in treating and preventing hyperpigmentation. If you’re not applying (and reapplying!) a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30 every. single. day. (and no, your makeup with SPF doesn’t count), any progress you make with other products will be undone.
Pro tip: Tinted SPFs are your friend! They contain iron oxides, which help protect against visible light which has also been shown to potentially worsen pigmentation.
Chemical Exfoliants (AHAs + BHAs)
Exfoliants like glycolic acid, mandelic acid, and salicylic acid help fade pigmentation by increasing cell turnover and shedding pigmented cells. I recommend using them a few mornings a week. I usually like to use them in the form of an active cleanser during the AM or a peel pad. If you are using an active cleanser, make sure to let it sit on your skin for 60 seconds before washing off.
Start slow.
Inflammation is the enemy of pigmentation, so we want to gently nudge—not attack—the skin. If you’re new to acids or combining them with a retinoid, alternate days or buffer with moisturizer to prevent irritation.
Lightening + Brightening Ingredients
Let’s break down some MVP ingredients that help interrupt melanin production and fade discoloration:
Vitamin C: A powerhouse antioxidant that brightens and helps even tone.
Niacinamide: Great for calming the skin and reducing inflammation-driven pigment.
Kojic Acid + Arbutin: Plant-derived brighteners that inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production.
Azelaic Acid: Anti-inflammatory and brightening—plus considered pregnancy-safe!
Tranexamic Acid: A favorite for melasma. Works especially well when taken orally under provider supervision.
There are some really great brightening serums out there—here are a few of my absolute must-haves!
If I could give every hyperpigmentation patient just one product (after SPF), it would probably be a retinoid. Retinoids increase cellular turnover, fade pigment, and boost collagen over time. I say this all the time, but if you hear someone say that there is a product that replaces a retinoid, run the other way! Truly nothing can replace the benefits from a retinoid that works for your skin type.
Pro Tip: That said, start slow and know that some flaking or sensitivity is normal in the beginning. I typically recommend using your retinoid at night and keeping acids for the morning. And if you’re pregnant, skip this one for now!
Antioxidants (topical & oral)
Oxidative stress from sun, pollution, and internal inflammation plays a huge role in hyperpigmentation. That’s where antioxidants come in! In addition to topical options like Vitamin C, I love adding oral support like Heliocare to help the skin defend itself from within. Be sure to clear with your provider before adding an oral supplement.
What a Sample Routine Might Look Like:
Here’s a few sample routines I suggest for combatting hyperpigmentation (SIMPLE, LEVEL UP, & DOING THE MOST):
SIMPLE
AM
✔️ Antioxidant serum (Vitamin C)
✔️ SPF 30+ (preferably tinted)
PM
✔️ Double Cleanse
✔️ Moisturizer
✔️ Retinoid
LEVEL UP
AM
✔️ Cleanser
✔️ Antioxidant serum (Vitamin C)
✔️ Moisturizer
✔️ SPF 30+ (preferably tinted)
PM
✔️ Double Cleanse
✔️ Lightening Serum
✔️ Moisturizer
✔️ Retinoid (you can also swap moisturizer and retinoid, based on your tolerance)
DOING THE MOST
AM
✔️ Cleanser
✔️ Antioxidant serum (Vitamin C)
✔️ Moisturizer
✔️ SPF 30+ (preferably tinted)
PM
✔️ Double Cleanse
✔️ LED Mask (Green LED light is the most effective for directly targeting hyperpigmentation)
✔️ Lightening Serum
✔️ Moisturizer
✔️ Retinoid (you can also swap moisturizer and retinoid, based on your tolerance)
Pro Tip: If your skin feels irritated, skip actives and stick to gentle hydration until things calm down.
Let’s conclude this by saying hyperpigmentation is stubborn—and often there is no outright cure but it can be improved with the right approach! Focus on consistency (and SPF). Got questions? Send me a DM or leave a comment! Also, if you are ready to level things up, take a peek at my new Skincare Guide!
xx Amy
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