My Favorite Exfoliating Products & How I Use Them
To me, exfoliation is one of those topics that we hear about as a teenager, but it was always ambiguous exactly how and when to do it (not to mention what to use). I think we all went through those teenage phases where we would use an abrasive scrub to “get rid of dead skin cells.” While there are many forms of exfoliation (falling under either a physical or chemical exfoliation), I am going to specifically discuss my favorite exfoliating ingredients today (spoiler alert: they are all chemical exfoliants). We’ll also cover how I use them! Today I’m going to chat about two of the most common: AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids).
Ok before we get too deep into why I love these specific ingredients, I want to go over a couple of the basics of exfoliation! I won’t be going over body exfoliation too much, but you can take a peek at my Body Care Routine for a little more info on that topic.
What Is Exfoliation & Why Is It Beneficial:
I like to think of exfoliation as your skin compensating for the slower cell turnover rate that comes with age. Regular exfoliation offers numerous benefits, such as fading dark marks, unclogging pores, minimizing the appearance of pores and superficial “scars”, making fine lines and wrinkles less visible, and enhancing the absorption of skincare products. By removing the uppermost layer of “dead” cells, it prevents acne outbreaks, brightens the skin, and allows deeper penetration of treatments (allows our other skincare to work more effectively)! I do want to emphasize that more exfoliation is NOT better! Abrasive exfoliants and over-exfoliation can be worse than not exfoliating at all. But I will go into that more later in this blog!
AHAs
AHAs are pivotal for enhancing skin texture, drawing from items like fruits, milk, and sugar. AHAs also have humectant qualities to attract and retain moisture. As they are water-soluble, AHAs can effectively break down the "glue" that keeps dead skin cells attached to the surface, enabling these old cells to be washed away. This process leads to smoother skin texture and enhances that “glow” we all strive for. Now that we have discussed AHAs as a whole, I want to more specifically highlight 3 of the most popular forms of AHA: glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid.
Glycolic Acid: What better way to start than to begin with arguably the most popular AHA, Glycolic Acid. Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is quite literally a life changing ingredient. It's not just for breakouts; it also tackles hyperpigmentation, dullness, and aging signs, like fine lines and wrinkles, offering a comprehensive skin rejuvenation. What I think is notable is that glycolic acid is a much smaller molecular size than the others. This allows for deeper skin penetration, enhancing its effectiveness as an exfoliant and collagen stimulator (I know, music to all of our ears).
Ok this might be a little bit of a cheat because quite frankly this product also has lactic acid, mandelic acid, and salicylic acid. WITH THAT, glycolic acid is one of the first ingredients, so I think it’s fair to have it here. If you have been following me for a minute, you know that these cleaning pads are one of my holy grail/can’t live without/will repurchase forever products. It’s basically a fast-acting, two-step daily treatment with AHAs and BHA to smooth fine lines, refine pores, and improve tone and texture. I use it a few times a week first thing in the morning and I swear my skin GLOWS after!
If you have seen any of my morning routines blogs, you would know that I love to incorporate an exfoliating cleanser in the morning. With that, it’s not just the product, it’s how to use it. When you are working with an active cleanser, let it sit for 60 seconds before you remove it. This allows for the product to work its magic, but not enough time to cause irritation (I give a little demonstration in this video).
Lactic Acid: Compared to glycolic acid, lactic acid is a larger molecular size which means it penetrates the skin more slowly, making it a bit gentler. This means it’s also far less likely to cause irritation, making it particularly beneficial for sensitive skin types. What I also love is that lactic acid is super hydrating, making it amazing for dry and dehydrated skin. So not only are you exfoliating, but you're retaining moisture too (making it one of my favorite exfoliating ingredients). Lactic acid just has this incredible ability of leaving skin dewy and bright. Just to provide a little variety to your exfoliant options, I am going to put the spotlight on my FAVORITE lactic acid serum.
If you listened to my recent podcast episode with Shani Darden, you know that she’s a wealth of knowledge! So to no surprise, her lactic acid serum is a dream in a bottle. It has 9% lactic acid. Ultimately, it refines and rejuvenates skin, leaving you with the glowiest complexion.
Mandelic Acid: I am actually really excited to talk about this one, because I find this one to be far different than lactic acid and glycolic acid. Mandelic acid, derived from bitter almonds, stands out for its gentle yet effective properties, making it suitable for all skin types. Its much larger particle size allows for slower absorption, minimizing irritation. It’s also unique with the fact that it’s water soluble, but it still has oil soluble properties. So it can break down that stubborn, deep oil, without completely drying out your skin.
This serum from Naturium is powerful and gentle all at the same time! It also contains niacinamide so it leaves skin even and bright! I also love that it doesn’t strip your skin. For best results, I like to apply it at night before my moisturizer. Make sure to use code AMYK15 for 15% off!
BHAS
BHAs, particularly salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into the follicle, offering a robust solution for those with oily or acne-prone conditions. While they're often associated solely with these skin types, BHAs are universally beneficial, capable of deep pore cleansing and exfoliation. I know that I mentioned this was a blog not about body exfoliation, but I should mention that I primarily love BHAs for my body care routine. Just because I have drier skin, I want to be mindful that a BHA can potentially dry out the skin on my face. Whereas I love them for my body, because they excel in removing dead skin cells, dirt, and oil, leading to clearer skin, reduced oiliness, smoother texture, and minimize pores.
Salicylic Acid: Unlike AHAs that work on the skin's surface, salicylic acid is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deeper into pores to dissolve dead skin cells and sebum, preventing and addressing blemishes. There is a reason salicylic acid takes center stage and it’s because it is specifically tailored to combat acne and clogged pores. I love it, but I definitely encourage you to approach most formulations with caution as they can be intense (definitely look at SA percentage before using).
This is without a doubt my favorite salicylic acid product! A cleanser is such a great way to get the benefit of this ingredient without the irritation toners and other BHA products may have. Plus, it’s incredibly affordable, which is an automatic win. Besides that, its formulation exfoliates the skin without stripping it or drying it out (usually my biggest concern with BHAs). My top tip is to use it AFTER you have used a conditioner in the shower. Many conditioners contain ingredients that can clog your pores, so by finishing with this salicylic acid body wash, you will just clear everything out! Just like the active cleansers I have mentioned before, the key is to leave it on for at least 60 seconds before rinsing. This is the only way for the product to truly be effective! Make sure to use code AMYK15 for 15% off!
The Dangers Of Over-Exfoliating:
I teased this at the beginning, but I do want to cover the importance of being intentional when you exfoliate, how you exfoliate, and what you use. Over-exfoliating can severely disrupt your skin's natural balance, leading to noticeable redness, heightened sensitivity, and uncomfortable dryness. These symptoms are signs that the skin's protective barrier was likely compromised, making it incredibly difficult to retain moisture or protect against environmental aggressors effectively. On top of that, excessive exfoliation can also exacerbate inflammation, potentially leading to long-term issues such as increased pigmentation or scarring.
I most often see this when people are using a physical scrub that ends up being too abrasive, or they are choosing a chemical exfoliant that doesn’t work for their skin type. For example, if you have incredibly sensitive and dry skin, I wouldn’t advise using a BHA exfoliant on your face consistently. I recommend exfoliating judiciously, paying attention to your skin's responses, and ensuring you're incorporating adequate moisture and protection into your routine. If you suspect over-exfoliation, don’t ignore this. You can also (and I always suggest) discuss with your dermatology provider to find a cadence and product that fits your skin type before usage.
Finally, I think it can just be incredibly beneficial to ease into it. Most of the products I listed give a suggested frequency of usage, but definitely start modestly. Your skin will tell you if it’s too much!
I hope you liked this little deep dive into my favorite exfoliating ingredients and how I like to incorporate exfoliating into my routine! I honestly love discussing these topics, because there is constantly new information and products being provided! So I love updating you with the latest research. Comment below any topics you want me to cover next!
Hungry for more? Check out my Comprehensive Skincare Guide in the Skinthusiast Shop!
**Disclaimer: This post does not constitute medical advice. Please speak to your Dermatology provider before adding any at home procedures or products into your routine!
***This post contains affiliate links.
