Retinoids for Beginners vs Advanced
At this point, my blog is starting to feel like one long love letter to retinoids and SPF… and you know what? I’m not mad about it. So it should come to no surprise that today’s topic is on retinoids! More specifically, how I suggest going about retinoids for beginners vs advanced users.
If this is your first time hearing me talk about retinoids, you can absolutely read my full 101 blog, but here’s a quick synopsis. Retinoids remain the gold standard for addressing breakouts, fine lines, uneven tone, and overall skin texture.
But here’s the issue I see constantly in clinic and in my DMs:
The retinoid they’re using and their retinoid routine, isn’t right for their skin type/tolerance level.
So today, I want to help you figure out exactly where you fall on the retinoid spectrum and how to build the right routine around it.
Beginner vs Advanced: Which One Are You?
Ok let’s keep it simple, you’re likely a BEGINNER if:
you’ve never used a retinoid before
your skin is sensitive or reactive
you’ve tried one in the past and experienced significant irritation
you currently tolerate retinoids fewer than ~3 nights per week
your barrier feels easily compromised
You’re likely ADVANCED if:
you tolerate a retinoid most nights (or nightly)
you experience minimal flaking or irritation
you’ve used retinoids consistently for months to years
your barrier feels stable and resilient
you’re working toward prescription-strength options
If you’re unsure, start as a beginner. There is absolutely no downside to being conservative at the start. Also, I do want to emphasize that this isn’t to say an intermediate phase doesn’t exist — it absolutely does. While the guidance here is geared toward true beginners and more seasoned retinoid users, I have a full lineup of my favorite intermediate retinoid picks here if you’re somewhere in between.
Retinoid Routine for Beginners
If you are new to retinoids, your goal is pretty simple: build tolerance, protect your barrier, and stay consistent. This is absolutely not the time to stack actives or experiment with complicated routines. In my experience, the patients who succeed long-term with retinoids are the ones who keep things boring (in the best way possible) at the beginning.
In the evening, start with a double cleanse. From there, I almost always recommend applying your moisturizer first to buffer the skin and improve tolerability, especially if you are a true beginner or have sensitive skin. If you know certain areas of your face tend to get irritated (corners of the nose, around the mouth, under the eyes), you’re going to go in with a very thin layer of an occlusive in those spots before your retinoid. This method is so underrated in my opinion. I usually use Prequel and put it on my most sensitive areas (absolutely NEVER apply an occlusive AFTER your retinoid, you’ll wake up with redness and irritation). Then comes your retinoid. Remember, just a pea-sized amount for the entire face. That’s it. That’s your routine.
How Often Should You Apply?
Frequency-wise for beginners, slow and steady wins every single time. I typically recommend starting two to three nights per week, then gradually working toward every other night and eventually nightly if your skin is tolerating things well. Slow and steady is key though. Do a few nights a week for months, before considering taking up the frequency.
Side note, if irritation has been your main struggle in the past, I highly recommend reading my Retinoid Soothing Strategies post next. It goes much deeper on buffering, occlusives, and barrier support.
Retinoid Routine for Advanced Users
If your skin is well acclimated, you have a bit more flexibility, but the fundamentals still matter. The goal here is to maximize results while maintaining barrier health. In the evening, start with a double cleanse. If your skin tolerates it well, this is where an optional treatment serum can come into play, but only if it’s something your skin is already very comfortable with (here is a little cheat sheet on what pairs well with retinoids and what doesn't). From there, you may choose to apply your retinoid directly to dry skin or over a light layer of moisturizer depending on your sensitivity level. As always, stick with a pea-sized amount for the entire face
One thing I always remind my long-time retinoid users: more intense does not automatically mean better long-term results.
How Often Should You Apply?
I will keep this super brief, but if your skin is truly acclimated (meaning minimal dryness, little to no irritation, and your barrier feels stable), most advanced users can work toward nightly use. Which, in my opinion, is the ultimate goal.
Picking Your Retinoid Based on Experience Level
Now for the part I know many of you come here for, what strength should you actually be using?
While exact percentages aren’t everything (formulation matters a lot), here is a general framework I use in clinic to guide patients.
If You’re a Beginner:
In most cases, I recommend starting with low-strength retinol, gentle retinaldehyde, adapalene 0.1% for acne-prone beginners. If you love details, here is the typical beginner range:
retinol: ~0.1%–0.3%
retinaldehyde: low-strength formulas
adapalene: 0.1% OTC
Some of my favorite beginner-friendly options include:
Differin Adapalene 0.1% (especially for acne-prone skin)
If You’re Intermediate (I told you I would include this category eventually)...
Typical intermediate range:
retinol: ~0.3%–0.5%
retinaldehyde: mid-strength formulas
Some of my go-to intermediate picks:
If You’re Advanced
Typical advanced range:
retinol: ~0.5%–1.0%
higher-strength retinaldehyde
prescription tretinoin (under derm supervision)
Advanced favorites I often recommend:
prescription tretinoin
I do want to preface that I am incredibly picky about my skincare and I only recommend the best of the best. So check this shelf regularly to see my current top picks for my favorite retinoid for every skin type!
Alright that covers it! As always, let me know what retinoid questions you want me to cover next!
If you want my full breakdown of retinoid routine, hacks, product picks, and exactly how I structure my regimen, make sure to check out my Retinoid Cheat Sheet on the Skinthusiast Shop. Looking for a little more detail on the subject? Watch my recent youtube video on a Derm PA’s Tretinoin Skincare Routine for Beginners!
**Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links and may contain products gifted in PR. This means that I may earn a small commission when you purchase via these links at no additional cost to you (thank you! It helps me keep things up and running)… As always I ONLY recommend products, goods and services that I stand behind and personally love and use
