What Order Do I Apply My Skincare?
Without a doubt, one of the top 5 questions I get asked as a Derm PA and #skinthusiast, is what is the “correct” order of skincare when building your routine. Trust me, I get it. It can feel exhausting to try to understand how to properly layer your skin care products. I do just want to emphasize that while choosing the proper products for your skin type is essential, it can be just as important how and when you apply them. My main hope with this blog is to demystify the sequence of skincare, ensuring your routine is as effective (and safe) as possible! I am going to give you the inside scoop on the rationale behind the order, a detailed morning and evening routine, and everything else you need to know regarding the placement of your skincare products.
The Science Of Layering Skin Care
You might have heard about the “golden rule” in skincare layering, being applying products from the thinnest consistency to the thickest or from the most liquid to the creamiest. I actually do stand by this and I think it can be a quick hack if you are trying to decipher your order (this is not necessarily always the case, but it can be helpful most of the time).
With all of that, I think it can always be helpful to understand “why.” I promise to keep the science to a minimum, but I am going to briefly go over why exactly going from thinnest to thickest is usually the best route. At the heart of this approach is the goal of maximizing product absorption and effectiveness. Products with smaller, lighter molecules, such as hydrating serums, are designed to penetrate and deliver active ingredients directly to the cells that need them.
Following these with thicker, more occlusive products serves a dual purpose. Firstly, it ensures that the lighter products have direct access to the skin without being blocked by heavier barriers. Secondly, it leverages the occlusive nature of creams and oils to seal in the moisture and active ingredients, enhancing their efficacy (basically a win/win). This layering technique also takes into consideration the pH balance of the skin, which can be affected by various products. Proper layering respects the skin’s natural acidity, ensuring that each product's formula can work as intended without being neutralized or altered by the pH of the preceding product. Ok, don’t worry, science class is done now!
Now that we have briefly covered the importance of layering properly, let’s discuss how I would suggest layering a general morning and evening routine!
Morning Skincare Sequence:
Step 1. Active Cleanser: I am sure most of you know that the first part of your routine (morning or night) will be cleansing. With that, I do want to mention that I love using an active cleanser in the morning. These cleansers contribute to gentle exfoliation, removing the accumulation of oils and products from overnight. Active ingredients such as salicylic acid target acne by unclogging pores, while glycolic acid helps to brighten complexion. Whether or not you are using an active cleanser, a cleanser should be your first step. You want to apply all of your other products to a completely clean canvas.
Since we are discussing the proper order/use of products, it’s worth mentioning that your skin should be patted slightly dry post cleanse, leaving it slightly damp. This minor adjustment in your skincare routine can significantly enhance the penetration of active ingredients. Damp skin is more permeable, allowing serums, especially those containing hyaluronic acid, to absorb better and hydrate the skin effectively by drawing moisture from the environment. It's important, however, to ensure the skin is not overly wet, as excess water can dilute the serum and potentially diminish its potency. Long story short, post cleanse, leave your skin slightly damp.
Step 2. Antioxidant Serum: Post-cleansing, an antioxidant serum should be your next step (I honestly like to think about them like they are my first line of defense against environmental stressors). Vitamin C, one of my favorite skin care products ever, plays a pivotal role in neutralizing free radicals and aids in collagen synthesis (if you are looking for the proper way to apply Vitamin C, you can watch my complete tutorial here). I like to have this be an early application to ensure direct skin absorption, which will also layer a protective foundation against daily external aggressions.
I do want to mention that I know a lot of individuals who use multiple serums in the AM or PM. I would definitely suggest sticking with the theme of starting with the thinnest, most watery serum and progress to the thicker, more viscous ones. This sequence allows the lighter serums to penetrate the skin without being obstructed by the heavier textures of subsequent products. I do just want to note a couple of things if you are using more than one serum.
Be intentional about what each serum is for and consider whether all are necessary for your morning and evening routines. Sometimes, alternating serums—using one in the morning and another at night—can be more effective and less irritating than using all at once.
Pay attention to the active ingredients in each serum to avoid negative interactions. For example, vitamin C and retinoids or AHAs/BHAs may irritate if used together in the same part of your routine. I definitely recommend consulting a dermatologist on this matter (DM me if you want me to also write a blog on ingredients I suggest using together, and ingredients I don’t like suggest using together).
Step 3. Eye Cream: I should emphasize that this part is optional. I am a firm believer that eye creams are an extra cherry on top, but not an absolute need. If you are choosing to use an eye cream, I really suggest that it should be applied before your moisturizer. It’s going to target the undereye area, maximizing hydration and addressing fine lines. without being obstructed by heavier products (aka moisturizer) applied after.
Step 4. Moisturizer: Following serums with a moisturizer helps seal in the applied treatments while adding essential hydration. Of course the level of the thickness of the moisturizer will vary based on your skin type, but either way, I suggest having moisturizer still be one of your final steps.
Dry Skin Favorites:
Oily Skin Favorites:
Step 5. Sunscreen: I cannot emphasize this part enough, SPF should be your FINAL step. Acting as the protective outer shield, sunscreen application concludes the morning routine (don’t forget your SPF lip balm too). It's essential for guarding against UV-induced damage throughout the day. Applying it last ensures no dilution of SPF occurs, maintaining full protective efficacy (this is not to say, you won’t need to reapply an SPF throughout the day, it will just keep your initial SPF working optimally. You can read my tips on reapplying SPF here).
Evening Skincare Sequence:
Step 1. Cleansing: Just like the morning, there is honestly no point in applying any treatment until your skin is completely clean. I also want to emphasize that evening cleansing is about removing not just makeup but the entirety of the day’s buildup (this can be pollution, dirt, etc). This is also why I swear by a double cleanse! Start with a cleansing balm or oil to remove your initial dirt, makeup, etc (watch my recent tutorial on how to apply a cleansing balm properly). Then, when that first layer is removed, you can actually “cleanse” the face with a cleanser that supports your skin type.
Cleansing Balms & Oils:
Water Based Cleansers:
Step 2. Treatment Serums: You probably already caught onto this, but I like to think of morning serums as anything that will protect your skin from environmental variables you may face that day. Whereas your PM routine is an optimal time to apply targeted treatment serums. With the skin in its natural repair phase, active ingredients can work synergistically with this process, addressing specific skin concerns without daytime environmental interference.
Step 3. Eye Cream: Just like I mentioned before, this step is absolutely optional. Although, I will say, the area around the eyes is especially sensitive, so if you are using a retinoid, I really do love to have a bit of a barrier between retinoid and the skin, to prevent irritation.
Step 4. Moisturizer: I probably sound like a broken record at this point, but just like in the AM, a moisturizer at this point will seal up the serums and moisturize. With that, I do like to place the moisturizer before the retinoid (in most, but not all cases). Retinoids are incredible (besides SPF, they are truly my number one must-have product), but I do prefer to have a buffer (aka moisturizer, or in some cases, also a petroleum jelly) to prevent irritation.
Step 5. Retinoids: Ok I know this entire blog is about the placement of skincare products, but retinoids are a little more case by case. I will give a brief synopsis here, but I highly encourage you to read my retinoid routine blog so you can get a better idea of when and how you will apply retinoids. I, personally, love the inclusion of retinoids at night. This is not because it will make your skin more sensitive in the sun (this is just a myth), but because some older retinoids are less stable in light. And as I previously mentioned, in most cases, I do like them to be one of the final steps to my PM routine.
If you are curious about learning more on the basics of building a skin care routine for your exact skin type, I have an entire comprehensive skin care basics guide that will give you tips, expert advice, and my must-have products for each skin type.
Timing Between Product Layers:
I think since we are already discussing the correct order of skin care, it’s worth mentioning the timing in between each product. After cleansing your skin, apply each product with about 30 seconds to a minute in between, allowing each layer to be adequately absorbed. This brief pause ensures that the active ingredients penetrate the skin without interacting negatively with each other. For treatments with potent ingredients like retinoids or highly concentrated serums, waiting a bit longer—up to a few minutes—can be beneficial.
I have heard it time and time again where people place all their products on quickly without giving time to absorb. I just want to emphasize that skincare is an investment, so I want you to get your worth! Prioritizing the proper timing and placement can be the biggest game changer.
What Happens When The Order Is Off:
Ok I am not doing this as a fear tactic (I promise), but I do want to emphasize that this is definitely an important matter. When products are not applied in their optimal order, a few things typically happen. Firstly, improper layering can significantly diminish the absorption and, consequently, the effectiveness of key active ingredients. For example, applying a thick cream before a lightweight serum can create a physical barrier, preventing the serum's active ingredients from penetrating the skin's surface where they can exert their benefits. I know I already mentioned this, but I know how pricey serums can be, and I want you to receive all of the benefits they can offer!
Moreover, incorrect product placement can lead to increased skin irritation and sensitization. Certain potent actives, like retinoids and acids, require careful integration into skincare routines to minimize adverse reactions. When layered improperly, such as combining them without adequate spacing or layering under occlusive agents prematurely, it can intensify their potency and trigger irritation, redness, and peeling.
Finally, the accumulation of products applied out of sequence can cause pilling, where products roll off the skin in small pellets. This not only wastes product but also indicates that the skincare is not being absorbed properly, reducing its potential impact. Basically, layering incompatible ingredients, due to a lack of consideration for their order, can neutralize their effects or produce harmful combinations that might degrade skin health over time.
I hope all of this information not only gave you an idea of how to order your skincare, but also why it’s so incredibly important! I know this can be challenging, so as always, DM me if you have any questions!
**Disclaimer: This post does not constitute medical device. Please speak to your Dermatology provider before adding any at home procedures or products into your routine!
