How Much Of Your Retinoid Should You Be Applying (& What Happens If You Over Apply)
If there's one skincare product that I consider non-negotiable—aside from sunscreen—it's undoubtedly a retinoid. I consider retinoids to be the literal gold standard in skincare (and they often don’t get the hype they deserve). I go into a little more detail on the benefits of a retinoid in your routine in my Retinoid 101 blog, but a few of my favorites benefits are tackling breakouts, fine lines, and uneven skin texture. With all of this, how you apply your retinoid and how much you apply, is essential. I have written about the routine I recommend when using a retinoid before, but today’s focus is how much retinol is appropriate to apply, the consequences of overuse, and tips to maximize its benefits without irritating your skin.
Retinoids 101
Before we get too much in the application part, I think it’s important to understand what they are and how they work! Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from Vitamin A, known scientifically for their role in cellular turnover and collagen synthesis. These actions help rejuvenate the skin by accelerating the removal of old skin cells and boosting the underlying structure of the skin. It’s also important to note that there are various forms of retinoids: retinol, retinaldehyde, and tretinoin just to name a few.
Optimal Application of Retinoids
Amount: A common mistake I hear with my patients and followers when it comes to retinoids, is the amount they are using. Trust me, more is not more. A pea-sized amount of retinoid is sufficient for the entire face. This ensures effective coverage without overwhelming the skin. You can then use another pea-sized amount to take down to my neck and aging the decolletage, and hands.
Frequency: This is of course going to depend on what type of retinoid you are working with and what percentage you want (as always, this is why I highly suggest working with your derm provider to figure out the best retinoid and frequency for you). For most cases, I suggest beginning with application two to three times per week, monitoring skin’s response. If well-tolerated, you can gradually increase usage to nightly. This method helps build tolerance and minimizes the risk of irritation.
Consequences of Overapplying Retinoids
You probably anticipated this, but applying the improper amount of retinoid, comes with negative consequences. Excessive use of retinoids can lead to a condition known as retinoid dermatitis, marked by redness, peeling, and sensitivity. This occurs when the accelerated turnover overwhelms the skin's ability to repair itself, leading to a compromised barrier function. More sensitive areas, like around the eyes and mouth, are particularly susceptible to these effects. All this being said, it’s important to let your skin acclimate to your retinoid slowly and watch how it’s responding.
I should state that this reaction is different from the common purging period where retinoids cause an increase in cell turnover, leading to temporary breakouts which can be normal.
Strategies to Maximize Benefits & Minimize Risks
Gradual Introduction: Acclimate your skin to retinoids by starting with lower concentrations and gradually increasing the strength as your skin adapts.
Buffering Technique: I go into this more in my retinoid skincare routine, but I love applying a moisturizer before your retinoid to reduce direct contact and slow the absorption rate, thereby diminishing potential irritation without overly diluting the efficacy. As an added step, I will even apply a petroleum jelly to extra sensitive areas (mouth, eyes and nose) BEFORE using a retinoid. (Applying the petroleum after your retinoid can actually increase irritation).
Selective Combining: I have a whole blog dedicated to skincare combos I love and don’t love, where I go into the specifics of what retinoids pair well with (and what they don't). With that, avoid using retinoids with other potent skin agents such as AHAs/BHAs, Vitamin C, and Benzoyl Peroxide, especially in the beginning. On the flip side, retinol and niacinamide marry beautifully together (I will attach some of my favorite products with this combo below).
Sun Protection: In general, I will always encourage more sun protection. This is no exception. While it’s a myth that retinoids cause a photosensitizing reaction, it’s still absolutely crucial to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to protect the skin, especially if you’re experiencing redness or irritation.
If you haven’t already, I hope this encourages you to explore including a retinoid in your skincare routine! Have any retinoid questions? DM me, I would love to answer them in a podcast episode or future blog!
Hungry for more? Check out my Comprehensive Skincare Guide in the Skinthusiast Shop!
**Disclaimer: This post does not constitute medical advice. Please speak to your Dermatology provider before adding any at home procedures or products into your routine!
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