Vitamin C 101
Happy National Vitamin C Day! In honor of one of my favorite skincare ingredients, I wanted to give you all a full on deep dive into why I love Vitamin C, how I use it, and then a cheat sheet to all the Vitamin C’s I swear by for every skin type. Sit back, relax, and let’s delve into the world of Vitamin C.
What Is Vitamin C / The Science of Vitamin C
At its core, Vitamin C is a naturally occurring antioxidant found in various fruits and vegetables. In the world of dermatology and skincare, it's truly beloved for its ability to neutralize unstable molecules that can damage the skin due to environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution- aka free radicals.
Ok now we are going to get a little more science based for a moment, but I do think it’s good to know so we can truly appreciate what a powerhouse Vitamin C is. The challenge with Vitamin C, especially in its most used form, L-ascorbic acid, lies in its inherent instability when exposed to light, air, and heat. This sensitivity can lead to oxidation, reducing its skin-rejuvenating potency. To overcome this, skincare science has utilized formulation strategies and stable derivatives, ensuring Vitamin C's benefits are fully delivered to the skin without compromise. These advancements are honestly what make Vitamin C a versatile and essential component of skincare regimens (and why it is an absolute must in my skin routine)!
Benefits of Vitamin C for the Skin
Ok after discussing a bit about the science and background of Vitamin C, I think we are all asking the same question: what are the direct benefits I would notice in adopting a Vitamin C into my regimen. The benefits of Vitamin C for the skin are multifaceted. Collagen is such a hot topic in recent years, but to anybody unfamiliar, collagen is a vital protein that helps maintain skin's elasticity and firmness. The reason I bring this up is because Vitamin C plays a crucial role in collagen production, effectively diminishing signs of aging and promoting a more youthful appearance.
Beyond this, Vitamin C is known for its brightening effect aiding in the reduction of hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone. I don’t want to brush over this lightly, because hyperpigmentation and melasma is something so many of us struggle with (including myself). Besides daily use of SPF, Vitamin C is a usually necessary addition, but I want to manage your expectations. It will not cure your hyperpigmentation and takes months of consistency to see a change. But, the other benefits of Vitamin C far outweigh its brightening benefits in my opinion, so even when someone says they “don’t see a difference” after a bottle or two, I reassure them that it IS an essential part of a comprehensive skincare regimen.
Finally (but certainly not least), as I mentioned, Vitamin C's antioxidant properties are instrumental in neutralizing harmful free radicals, providing protection against environmental aggressors such as UV radiation and pollution. We are going to go into this a little more at the end of the blog, but this is one of the reasons I LOVE to pair Vitamin C with SPF.
Are we all fully obsessed with Vitamin C yet?!
How to Choose the Right Vitamin C Product
I cannot emphasize this enough, selecting the right Vitamin C product is essential to ensure you're getting the full benefits. For more resistant skin types look for products that contain L-ascorbic acid (the most biologically active form of Vitamin C). However, its effectiveness is highly dependent on the product's formulation and packaging; L-ascorbic acid is sensitive to light and air, which can quickly lead to oxidation and degradation of the vitamin. Therefore, opt for Vitamin C serums in opaque, air-tight containers to safeguard their stability and efficacy (this is also why I always say to shut the bottle completely after use). Additionally, for a Vitamin C product to be truly effective, I recommend a concentration level of 10-20%. This range is potent enough to ensure visible results without compromising skin tolerance, making it a sweet spot for those looking to enhance their skin's radiance, texture, and overall health. Note: the higher you go on this range, the higher the chances of irritation, but the more potent.
For less resistant, more sensitive types and those who tend to break out with Vitamin C, opt for a derivative like THD ascorbate. THD is a lipid soluble Vitamin C analog that penetrates the skin more easily without the necessity of a low pH formulation (one of the reasons LAA serums may sting a bit), making it ideal for sensitive skin types.
Now that we have discussed what to look for, I want to give a bit of a cheat sheet into finding the best Vitamin C for your skin type and budget! I do want to state that because the quality of Vitamin C is essential, some of them have a higher price tag. With that, trust me when I say there are also so many incredible Vitamin Cs for a third of the price.
Tips For Incorporating Vitamin C Into Your Skincare Routine:
Best Overall: SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic is one of my holy grail skincare products! Why? This formula was developed after years of research and it provides unparalleled antioxidant protection and anti-aging benefits, making it a splurge-worthy (in my opinion) investment for those seeking honest solutions.
For Sensitive Skin: Revision Skincare Vitamin C Lotion 30% is formulated with THD Ascorbate, gentle yet effective for sensitive skin types, offering brightening and anti-aging properties without irritation.
“Dupe” For Skinceuticals: I should preface that I am hesitant to call this a “dupe,” because it’s truly such an incredible product on its own. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic 15% Firm & Bright Serum combines potent L-Ascorbic Acid with lactic acid, targeting dark spots and uneven skin tone for a visibly brighter complexion. I love that this one is middle of the road concentration of LAA, making it effective but not so likely to irritate.
First 20% Stabilized LAA Serum: Beauty Stat’s Universal C Skin Refiner Vitamin C Brightening Serum is a higher percentage 20% LAA. Due to this, it’s definitely meant for resistant skin types, but it was the first 20% stabilized LAA serum to market and is pretty budget friendly!
Minimalist & Budget-Friendly: You probably all know that Naturium is a go to brand of mine, and their Vitamin C is no exception. The Vitamin C Super Serum Plus, with its blend of vitamin C, retinol, and hyaluronic acid, offers a multifaceted approach to skincare, ideal for those seeking simplicity without compromising on efficacy. This can be your all-in-one product and yes you can use it in the morning even though it has retinol!
(More) Budget-Friendly for Sensitive Skin: Covey Next Up Vitamin C Serum is another one of my absolute favorites! It caters to sensitive skin with its gentle formula that brightens and hydrates. It’s also a third of the price of a lot of Vitamin Cs formulated with sensitive skin in mind.
Overall Best Budget Option: Finally, CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum is in incredible option for visibly brightening skin and restoring the skin’s protective barrier. This is an amazing option for a Vitamin C and won’t break the bank (aka win win)!
How to Use Vitamin C for Best Results
I am going to make this section super quick, but I do want to include a couple of tips on how to get the most from your Vitamin C. For optimal results with Vitamin C, I like to integrate it into my morning skincare routine (you can read more about layering skincare properly in my recent blog). Make sure to give it time to fully absorb, before you apply a moisturizer or other serum.
I should also state that some individuals may experience adverse effects from Vitamin C due to its acidic nature, which can irritate sensitive skin, especially at higher concentrations. The potent antioxidant activity of Vitamin C can sometimes lead to a temporary reactive sensitivity as the skin adjusts to the active ingredient, particularly in formulations with a lower pH or in combination with other active skincare products. Due to this, if you're new to Vitamin C or have sensitive skin, start with a lower concentration to minimize potential irritation and consider performing a patch test. You can also do a Vitamin C “sandwhich” and apply it in between two layers of moisturizer.
Pairing Vitamin C
I have an entire blog on the skincare combos I love, so I won’t get into too much detail. With that, I do want you all to have an idea of the skincare products that pair well with Vitamin C!
Vitamin C + Sunscreen
While Vitamin C provides potent antioxidant benefits, combining it with a broad-spectrum sunscreen amplifies protection against UV damage and environmental stressors.
‘Vitamin C + Vitamin E / Ferulic Acid
Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid not only stabilize Vitamin C but also boost its antioxidant power, offering greater protection against oxidative stress. This is truly why I love Skinceutical C E Feulic so much (has all 3 in one bottle) and many formulations have taken note and also include this stabilizing antioxidant in their Vitamin C products.
Vitamin C + Hyaluronic Acid
Pairing Vitamin C with Hyaluronic Acid is such a hydrating combo! Not only deeply hydrating, but they also enhance the skin's texture and brightness. Beware that humectants increase penetration which can increase sensitivity in more sensitive skin types!
I think we have officially covered all of the reasons I adore Vitamin C and why I include it in almost every morning regimen of mine! I hope this helps answer any and all of your Vitamin C related questions. Also, I love doing these skincare deep dives, so please let me know which skincare product you want me to cover next.
Hungry for more? Check out my Comprehensive Skincare Guide in the Skinthusiast Shop!
**Disclaimer: This post does not constitute medical advice. Please speak to your Dermatology provider before adding any at home procedures or products into your routine!
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